Afensou is an hour’s drive north from Taroudant. The two places could hardly be more different – Taroudant is a walled, bustling trading city, known as the ‘Little Marrakesh’, situated in the flat and dusty Sous Valley, and Afensou is a quiet Berber village nestled in the foothills of the western High Atlas Mountains. There’s only one place to stay in Afensou, and that’s the guest house Les Terrasses de l’Atlas. This is a special place, and we recently spent four nights there. I hope you will click on the short video above, and see the traditional style Berber house, the nearby villages and the tracks we walked along.
The views are stunning from Les Terrasses, and the afternoon heat is soporific, especially so when swinging quietly from one of the available hammocks, but what may not be immediately obvious when looking out above the river bed (the green bits in the above photo) is how much activity is going on, at most times, beneath the canopy of trees and bushes.
We enjoyed two late afternoon walks, one up and the other down the nearby river course, with Habida from Les Terrasses. Walking with her we were able to watch as she greeted her friends, relatives and neighbours along the way, and we could see numerous people at work on their gardens, collecting vegetables and mending water channels. It was a perspective on Berber village life that you probably won’t get if you only trek in the mountains.
For tourists, a serene place. For the locals, a normal place of work.